under the rim trail (a/k/a the big hike) part 2

We were still at the edge of the burn zone but coming out of it and climbing regularly; closer to the cliff walls we had to go up and over, crossing from one dry drainage to the next.  We were catching some breezes up at each crest but the ascents were hot; although the forecast for the park had been 83F, it was closer to 90F down under the rim.

Six hours in

With these temperatures hotter than we expected (or hoped), the heat began to take its toll.  We were fine for water but the heat made us disinclined to eat and our empty stomachs soon became upset stomachs.  At hour 7, 15.31 miles in, we decided to stop for thirty minutes, to sit in the shade and try to eat a little.  After that, the plan was to stop every half hour for five minutes, in whatever shade we could find.  This helped, for sure, although we still didn't feel like eating.

Still enjoying the views, despite the heat

At this point, there was no way we were backtracking to the Sheep Creek connector to bail out.  Hour 8/16.81 miles came and went.  At 2:13 p.m., we passed the Yellow Creek campsite (17.41 miles) and saw six campers hanging out.  They had obviously come down from the Bryce Point side, an easy 5.5 mile downhill walk. Although the tiny creek was flowing, the park service had posted signs warning people to boil any creek water as there had been reports of E. coli (!!).  We kept walking, drinking down our own water, warm but uncontaminated.

That just looks hot, doesn't it?

We then left the drainage, walking through a very hot and dry sagebrush section as we rounded the end of the bluff, then started up the final drainage that would take us to Bryce Point.  For some time we were walking in the shade of big trees, on well-packed dirt, and we felt pretty good.

Coming around the end before heading up the final drainage

The last couple of miles - whew!  Those were rough.  We left the shade of the trees and started climbing in earnest.  The trail was totally exposed, although since we were nearing civilization, it was broad and smooth, easy walking if you haven't already done 21 miles.

The Hat Shop (I think, or in the vicinity)

As we got higher, the scenery got dramatic once again; we crossed a gorgeous ridge (the Hat Shop) and continued up the switchbacks, ever nearing the rim.  At about 10 hours and 20.99 miles, we passed three hikers - clean and fresh in brand-new clothes - who were exploring this end of the UtR trail and kept going, up up up.

Just got to get there now

By now, H was just focused on walking, one foot in front of the other, ignoring the blisters that had built up under his toes.  I was struggling a lot, feeling lightheaded and sick to my stomach, having to stop and lean over my hiking poles on every switchback corner.  At one point I shouted "HEY!" to H, who was up ahead a little ways; when he turned to look, I gave him the "time out" sign and then just sat down, right where I was on the trail.  After about five minutes (when no one magically appeared to rescue me), during which time I forced down half a granola bar, I got back up and continued trudging upwards.

Ten hours in/five minute rest

Then, wonderfully, we saw it: a car driving past on its way up to the Bryce Point overlook.  I hadn't realized how close we were since the UtR23 trail comes up on the far side of the ridge; we never even saw the amphitheater.  With the end clearly in sight, we got a last surge of energy and finished in (relatively) good form.  We did not, however, pause our steps to let the tourists take their photos - at that point, we weren't stopping for anything.

I don't look like I'm about to fall over

Once at the top, (4:55 p.m.) I could have kissed the Bryce Point sign.  Instead, we high-fived, got a tourist to take our picture and collapsed gratefully onto the bus seats when the shuttle arrived five minutes later.  We had done it!  We were psyched.  We were tired.

Views for days

We didn't even mind that the shuttle had to make numerous stops before dropping us back at our campground because that meant we got to stay sitting down longer.  When we did get back to our cabin, the first thing we did was pound the Gatorades that we had waiting for us in the cooler.  That brought us back somewhat; showers rejuvenated us further; and then dinner at the Ruby's Inn Cowboy Buffet (unlimited soup and salad bar) helped even more.  Even so, I was asleep before the sun fully went down, although H managed to stay up long enough for some star-gazing.

WE DID IT!!!

The more time went by, the more we appreciated the hike.  (And I especially appreciated the fact that the next morning, H rode his bike all the way back, uphill, to Rainbow Point to collect the truck: when he stopped at the park entrance to explain that the park pass was in the truck and that he was riding back to get it, the ranger raised an eyebrow and just said, "Huh.  That's a long ride." and let him go through.)

Post-hike feet - no blisters!

Once the fatigue dissipated, we ended up in good shape: our backs were a little stiff and H had a couple of blisters (I, amazingly, had none) but we were feeling pretty good.  It's safe to say that we will never do the UtR23 in one day again - perhaps as a two-day overnight camping trip - but we set a goal, trained for and achieved that goal.  And that feels great.

Uphill finishes are always fun

Hike stats: 23 miles with 4,320 feet of elevation; total time 11 hours 5 minutes with 8:18 of hiking and 2:49 of stoppage (even with the extra resting, we finished ahead of what H's initial plan had been: 11 hrs. 24 min.) ; moving average speed 2.7 m.p.h. and overall average speed 2.0 m.p.h.

Couple of different versions of the map